We took off from Madawadamulla this morning before sunrise, though we knew the sun would be rising any minute since the steady chanting from the Buddhist temple had begun. Even at this early hour we had to dodge stray dogs, cattle, goats, and birds in addition to the motorbikes, bicycles, buses and tuk tuks. Pretty sure my driver was preparing for a NASCAR race with the way we were speeding around the windy mountain roads of the Hill Country. Passing vehicles around blind curves, our driver slammed on his brakes so often I thought my breakfast was going to come up. There were several very close calls where we were within inches of losing our lives- I know this because I saw my life flash before my eyes about 6 times.
When we arrived in Pinnwalla, it was clear that the town's entire economy revolved around the elephants and tourism. There were beggars waiting next to our minivan ready to harass us. I looked down the road to where the elephants were bathing in the river and saw a row of tourist shops selling souvenirs and knick knacks. "Madame, which kind of magnet do you like? Please come in my shop. Have a look." My favorite lady was selling "handmade" hobo bags with elephant print fabric---ironically identical to the ones I saw all over beach towns in Thailand. Maybe she hand made all of those too... I could tell this wasn't going to be the "orphanage" that was described in the travel books where they talked about rescuing the wounded and orphaned elephants from the civil wars. Further describing how many of these elephants had a leg blown off from stepping on landmines.
Well, I saw no three legged elephants and the only injuries I noted were from the chaffing of the metal chain the elephants wore around their ankle. These elephants were on house arrest. It was heartbreaking. This place was a sham and they should really reconsider naming the place an elephant farm since they're also breeding baby elephants for their 1:00 Baby Elephant Bottle Feeding show. I'm really glad I got to see elephants being treated so well and living freely in Thailand. There it was clear these animals were like family members to the mahouts. Here, these people used spears to poke and stab the elephant into doing what they wanted. It reminded me of the ring leader in the book "Water for Elephants."
We were taking pics and poor Mollie and Holly were totally scammed by the trainers- they were told they could pet the elephants and he's take pictures. That had trouble written all over it. They each pet an elephant and posed for a picture and before giving their cameras back, they demanded a tip. Not only did they say, "tip Madame" as a command, but then told them it was 500 rupees ($4.91). Holly's 'photographer' said he took good pictures for her. When we looked back, he didn't get any with her looking at the camera or without other tourists all over the picture. It's a good thing I was taking her pic with my camera too. I didn't even charge her a 500 Rupee tip.
We didn't even stick around for the "main attraction" of the bottle feeding. We couldn't handle any more beggars or folks shoving bananas in our face to feed the elephants (which they were demanding 100 rupees/ banana AFTER people fed it to the elephant.) Terrible. Time to hit the road!
But I did take a zillion pics of the elephants because I just loved them and wanted to take them all home with me... well, take them all away from this place at least.
When we arrived in Pinnwalla, it was clear that the town's entire economy revolved around the elephants and tourism. There were beggars waiting next to our minivan ready to harass us. I looked down the road to where the elephants were bathing in the river and saw a row of tourist shops selling souvenirs and knick knacks. "Madame, which kind of magnet do you like? Please come in my shop. Have a look." My favorite lady was selling "handmade" hobo bags with elephant print fabric---ironically identical to the ones I saw all over beach towns in Thailand. Maybe she hand made all of those too... I could tell this wasn't going to be the "orphanage" that was described in the travel books where they talked about rescuing the wounded and orphaned elephants from the civil wars. Further describing how many of these elephants had a leg blown off from stepping on landmines.
Well, I saw no three legged elephants and the only injuries I noted were from the chaffing of the metal chain the elephants wore around their ankle. These elephants were on house arrest. It was heartbreaking. This place was a sham and they should really reconsider naming the place an elephant farm since they're also breeding baby elephants for their 1:00 Baby Elephant Bottle Feeding show. I'm really glad I got to see elephants being treated so well and living freely in Thailand. There it was clear these animals were like family members to the mahouts. Here, these people used spears to poke and stab the elephant into doing what they wanted. It reminded me of the ring leader in the book "Water for Elephants."
We were taking pics and poor Mollie and Holly were totally scammed by the trainers- they were told they could pet the elephants and he's take pictures. That had trouble written all over it. They each pet an elephant and posed for a picture and before giving their cameras back, they demanded a tip. Not only did they say, "tip Madame" as a command, but then told them it was 500 rupees ($4.91). Holly's 'photographer' said he took good pictures for her. When we looked back, he didn't get any with her looking at the camera or without other tourists all over the picture. It's a good thing I was taking her pic with my camera too. I didn't even charge her a 500 Rupee tip.
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| At least I caught Holly looking at my camera! Notice the stabbing spear in the guy's hands. |
We didn't even stick around for the "main attraction" of the bottle feeding. We couldn't handle any more beggars or folks shoving bananas in our face to feed the elephants (which they were demanding 100 rupees/ banana AFTER people fed it to the elephant.) Terrible. Time to hit the road!
But I did take a zillion pics of the elephants because I just loved them and wanted to take them all home with me... well, take them all away from this place at least.
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